A Cup of Nirvana

What do the shepherds in Ethiopia's highlands, Sufi mystics of the Middle East, Pope Clement VIII, the Sultans of the Ottoman Empire, and the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan have in common? 

Coffee! 

Hipster cafes and multimillion-dollar chains like Starbucks cater to a coffee culture that spans across continents and generations. The origins of this beloved drink and its journey through cultures, ages, and socio-political influences, however, is a tale that has spawned scores of treatises.

From its fabled discovery by a highland shepherd in Ethiopia it acquired its current stature as a staple drink in Yemen in 14th and 15th CE. Much like its Arabic roots from the word 'Qahwat al-bun' (wine of the bean) to its acceptance by the church in the 17th century and being re-introduced as 'Caffe' – the coffee bean has seen it all.

Talking about its connection to the Indian subcontinent – the advent of coffee has an interesting story to tell.

Qahwa Touches the Indian Shores

Historical accounts tell us that the coffee plant held such high esteem in the eyes of Middle-Eastern culture that no one was allowed to carry its seeds out of the Arabian Peninsula. This ensured the region's monopoly over coffee production – so much so that even the coffee-loving Mughal Emperors had to import it.

All of this changed in the 16th century when the Indian Sufi mystic Baba Budan from Chikmaglur traveled to Mecca for the Hajj. On one of his journeys, risking life and limb, he managed to bring back seven raw seeds from the ports of Mocha in Yemen, hidden expertly in his robes.

The seeds were planted on the slopes of Chandragiri hills in Karnataka, where coffee is still grown today, and in reverence to the mystic who brought it, the area is known as 'Baba Budangiri.'

Colonial India and the Resurgence of Coffee:

Up until the 17th century, growing coffee for commercial purposes was dominated by the middle-East. However, from the 17th century, coffee production saw itself spreading rapidly to wherever the European traders went. The 'Columbian Exchange' that talks about the intermingling of thoughts, flora, and fauna between the Old World and New – saw the production of coffee shifting from the Arabian Peninsula to the Western Hemisphere.

As the Mughal Empire declined, so did the popularity of coffee. With the onset of the Age of Imperialism, the British established Arabica coffee plantations across the hills of Southern India. The popularity of these efforts by the East India Company revived coffee consumption in the subcontinent again, with many upscale clubs sprouting up in the 18th century, offering coffee as their choice of beverage.

The widespread prominence gained by coffee in India would be incomplete without mentioning India Coffee House chains that have been instrumental in the spread of coffee in modern India. Started by a government body (the Coffee Cess Committee) in 1936 – at the peak of its popularity, the chain operated 72 outlets across the country. The gradual introduction of coffee to a tea-loving nation heralded the changing milieu of Indian society. India Coffee House sat at the heart of pre-liberalization India – where raging debates regarding literature, art, and social welfare were held.

Modern India's Love for Roasteries

Today, India ranks as the sixth-largest coffee producer globally and is home to 16 unique varieties that are predominantly grown in Karnataka, Kerala, and Tamil Nadu. Apart from the original offering of Arabica, the other variety cultivated in India is Robusta (which literally gets its name because it is less susceptible to coffee rust, a disease that often plagues Arabica hence more robust). 

The year 1996 saw Café' Coffee Day's entry into the Indian coffee scene and take it by storm – much like how Starbucks took over the American coffee arena. A range of home-grown brands and roasteries continue to cater to the ever-growing demand for coffee in the country today, as aficionados continue to seek newer and better brews – sampling global and local offerings alike. 

From the Ethiopian highlands to the famed Qahwahkhanas of Shah Jahan's Shahjahanabad, to the Italian cafes and unknown Americas, the humble bean has traveled the world. Coffee has enjoyed unparalleled popularity wherever it has been consumed and continues to be the world’s beverage of choice.

Standing as the most traded commodity in the world after oil, while it continues to evolve in form and flavor, its role remains ever-constant. Be it the narrow bylanes of Mughal Old Delhi, Calcutta's Colonial coffee clubs, or a chic café in a posh cosmopolitan locale, coffee continues to steer impassioned conversations and casual get-togethers with as much fervor as it did centuries ago.